So I suppose I should mention: after much waffling, I’ve finally decided to go back to America. Tedious dramatic details aside, I will simply say I’d rather not part with Japan – a country that has shown me wonder, mystery, contradiction, friendship, and more ways to dress a slice of pork than I can count – but I’ve been pushed/pushed myself into a situation where it’s the lesser of several evils.
Me, snapping photos in Yamaguchi's circa 1880 City Hall
Preceding from this rather depressing situation is a much nicer consequence though: because I’m leaving, I’ve seized upon the excuse to push up a lot of travel plans and work on crossing some things off my “Japan Bucket List” before I go. Early February was yet another trip to Kansai, introducing this semester’s crop of exchange students to the famous sights of Osaka and Kyoto. I’ve navigated Onomichi’s labyrinth yet again, and said farewell to my beloved empty houses, several of which are actually showing signs of life these days. Most interesting of all, this past week I made good on multiple past promises to my Japanese tutor to visit her home region in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Thanks to Keiko-sensei’s advice and the burgeoning spring weather, my friends and I had a wonderful three day roadtrip from Yamaguchi City to Tsuwano, onsen-hopping and taking in the historic and hidden treasures of Honshu’s far-Western tip. Highlights from Yamaguchi City as follows:
RurikÅji
Yamaguchi – both the larger prefecture and the city itself – have a fascinating history bound up in the raging wars of the Sengoku Jidai, Japan’s answer to the European feudal era. During this “Warring States Period” of the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries, the official Imperial capital of Kyoto was frequently being invaded, left in ruins, set on fire, etc. so the smaller, peaceful countryside city of Yamaguchi served as a much more stable center of culture and statecraft. At a certain point it actually was the chosen alternative capital; well aware of their city’s prestige, the area’s inhabitants and the noble families of the time intentionally mimicked Kyoto’s finest achievements, building numerous temples, gardens and palaces among the verdant green mountains of the domain.
The centrally located temple called Rurikoji contains within its sprawling grounds a number of monuments, gardens and museums, but the most famous sight is the city’s favorite symbol, a soaring pagoda based on Kyoto’s Toji. The rest of the area is well worth exploring too – don’t miss the tombs of the ruling Mori clan, built in a rare Shinto style (normally grave sites are associated with Buddhist tradition.) The stone walkway and staircase leading up to the graveyard’s main entrance have a curious echo effect on footsteps, said to resemble birdsong.
Joueiji and Sesshu’s Garden
Considered one of the greats of Japanese traditional art, the Buddhist monk Sesshu is closely associated with Yamaguchi City. While no one is absolutely certain about the provenance, he is said to have designed the standing-stone garden at Joueiji Temple, shown here:
Perhaps more curious though is the front garden, a raked-gravel plain at the entrance to the temple which is an obvious copy of Kyoto’s famous karesansui at Ryoanji.
The ceremonial altars facing out onto the undulating waves of pebbles are also fascinating, with dozens of mortuary tablets stacked up around statues of monks and Buddhas; tour groups regularly light the incense in the front hall and send the sweet smoke swirling through the open tatami rooms. Although this temple is actually quite small, it seems large due to the dual gardens, and one can hike up the low mountain behind the main building to a couple of ancillary shrines as well.
Yuda Onsen
Due to my personal obsession with all things vulpine, ever since I first heard mention of a hot spring discovered by a white fox, I’ve wanted to visit this onsen. While a bit isolated from the rest of the world, this countryside retreat has easy access to Yamaguchi City’s sights, and a package trip to visit both areas is highly recommended. With onsen retreats and weddings as its main attractors, Yuda is filled with dress shops, ryokan, and depictions of the town’s mascot Shirogitsune-kun (“Little White Fox.”) There’s a towering two-story statue of him right outside the main train station, along with a little plaque relating the legend of how a Buddhist monk spied the white fox healing his legs in a warm puddle, and thus unearthed the hot spring’s source some hundreds of years ago.
An outstanding example of why it’s so great to travel Japan during February’s winter off-season, our lovely Japanese-style room at Bochoen ran us only half of its usual 40000 yen – split between four people, we each ended up paying about $50 for luxurious accommodations and a hearty Japanese-style breakfast the morning of our departure. This hotel is small, but it has lovely rooms, very friendly service from the front desk, and great food at the restaurant on the first floor (you can even try Yamaguchi’s characteristic food, the poisonous fugu blowfish, although I actually recommend splurging on it elsewhere.) Best of all, because of its sister hotels right next door, guests at Bochoen get the run of three different onsen baths for no extra charge during their stay. Just ask for the wooden “Yuumeguri” pass at reception, grab your towel, and head less than a block down the street to either of the other ryokans’ bathing rooms.
On a personal note, I’m actually quite weak to heat – Dogo Onsen was hot enough to nearly make me pass out after about five minutes – but the water in Yuda’s baths was just a bare shade over my normal comfort zone; I was able to stay in a long while, enjoying the mineral silkiness which is supposed to be especially good for your skin. If you’re concerned about how some onsen just seem set on boiling you to death, give Yuda’s more gentle warmth a try!
Another Whirlwind Adventure 